New Zealand

Driving from Auckland up to Paihia and Waitangi in Northland, we took frequent breaks along the way to check out some of the sights our guidebook suggested. Here are some of the things to do in Northland, highly recommended road trip stopovers!

Hundertwasser Toilets in Kawakawa

The top 10 things to do in Northland, according to my guidebook, included something I had to read twice to believe it: the Hundertwasser toilets in Kawakawa. Excuse me? Public toilets as a tourist attraction? I mean, a star architect who built grand structures and wonderful living spaces, also built… toilet facilities? I had no idea what to expect due to the lack of pictures in my book, so curiosity had us stop in Kawakawa, and here’s what we saw:

In hindsight, I must say it was the most enjoyable, colourful and stylish loo break I have ever had. The only structure ever built by the artist in the Southern hemisphere, the Hundertwasser toilets even feature on New Zealand’s AA list of 101 Kiwi must-sees!

Whangarei Falls

An equally water-rich and picturesque experience can be had nearby at Whangarei Falls. They’re located just 5 km from Whangarei city centre and are easily accessible. From the parking lot, take a walk down the path leading to the foot of the falls to fully appreciate their splendour. It’s like a scene from a film, that’s how beautiful it is. So peaceful.

There are many waterfalls on both South and North islands, but these are my absolute favourite. There are no toilets to be found around though, so if the noise of water gives you the urge to “go somewhere”, you know where to head!

Kauri trees

And last but not least, if you’re cruising through Northland and need to stretch your legs for a while, stop in Puketi forest or Waipoua forest. There are plenty of tracks, walks, and boardwalks leading through stands of gigantic kauri trees. Depending on where you stop, you’ll have the option of 15-minute boardwalks, hour-long walks or tracks that take a few days to complete.

What are some of the things YOU would like to do in Northland?

Shrouded in legends, the Moeraki Boulders are a South Island natural tourist attraction en route from Oamaru to Dunedin.

The Moeraki Boulders are rock formations, round in shape, and lie on Koekohe Beach in northern Otago. They look like otherworldly spheres of rock that were cut in half and arbitrarily placed on the beach. Many show lines and cracks that make them resemble turtle shells. In fact, you will overhear other visitors discussing many a theory regarding the origin of the boulders as you stroll along the beach. Some suggest they landed there after a volcanic explosion, others refer to them as dinosaur eggs or even go as far as claiming they have something to do with aliens.

Geological wonders

The scientific explanation behind the boulders, albeit less glamorous, is nonetheless quite fascinating: the rocks are the product of sediments that accumulated at the bottom of the sea over 60 million years ago. Over time, coastal erosion revealed what scientists call septarian concretions. Quite a fancy name. In this magical atmosphere, it almost sounds like an incantation.

The legend of Araiteuru

But, more importantly, a Maori legend surrounds these mystical spheres on the South Island’s east coast. Maori legends tell of a great migration when their ancestors travelled from their homeland of Hawaiki to Aotearoa in over 40 large wakas (canoes).

Araiteuru, a famous canoe on a journey to find precious pounamu (greenstone), fell victim to a storm near Matakaea (Shag Point) and sank. The legend says the hull of the canoe became the reef, the kumara (sweet potato) it carried turned into stones and the round food baskets and water-carrying gourds transformed into the Te Kaihinaki, the Moeraki Boulders, forever petrified on Koekohe Beach.

No matter what theory around the Moeraki Boulders you subscribe to, you will find them a worthy stop on your road trip. Try to visit at sunrise for some spectacular nature photography!

How to get there

The boulders are on Koekohe Beach, right off SH1, between Oamaru and Dunedin. There’s a car park with a cafe and souvenir shop; just follow the path that leads down to the beach.

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Lake Tekapo is one of the South Island of New Zealand’s prime tourist destinations. I wasn’t aware of that when I was in New Zealand for the first time. My plan was to just make the trip from Christchurch to Queenstown in one day; that’s about 480km of driving through Canterbury and Otago. Lake Tekapo turned out to be worth so much more than just a quick stopover and picture opportunity. And you’re about to see why.

Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo is about half way from Christchurch to Queenstown, right on State Highway 8. It sits in Godley Valley (how aptly named), which is at the heart of a region called the Mackenzie Basin on New Zealand’s South Island. Lake Tekapo is one of three large alpine lakes that basically lie parallel to each other: Lake Pukaki, Lake Tekapo and Lake Ohau. It is the country’s highest large lake as it is 710m above sea level. The water of the lake is an amazing turquoise; this is due to the glaciers of the Southern Alps that feed the rivers Godley, Macaulay, and Cass, which in turn flow into Lake Tekapo.

The township of Tekapo counts just over 300 inhabitants, but not unlike other small towns in very picturesque settings, such as Arrowtown, the population increases overnight due to the many visitors, and during weekends, as Kiwis head to their holiday homes in the township.

The Church of the Good Shepherd

The Church of the Good Shepherd is a little chapel that sits right on the shore of Lake Tekapo. It was built in 1935 in memory of the pioneers of Mackenzie Country and was the first church to be built in the Mackenzie Basin.

The most notable feature of this little church is arguably its altar window. It looks out straight onto Lake Tekapo and perfectly frames the most magnificent views of the lake and the Southern Alps in the backdrop. Here’s another picture of it, because it’s so beautiful. This time, a winter-time view:

If you want to get hitched in New Zealand and what you’re after is an intimate setting in nature, I’d say Lake Tekapo is definitely a top contender. The Church of the Good Shepherd is bang in the middle of the spectacular Mackenzie basin; the Southern Alps, glacial lakes, not many people around… The only danger here is that you get so distracted by the views from the altar window you miss your cue to say I do!

The church only seats 55 people, so it’s really small. During peak hours in the high season, you may have to queue a little to enter. Since Lake Tekapo is in the middle of one of New Zealand’s most popular tourist routes, the SH 8 from Christchurch to Queenstown, many tourist busses arrive at the church over lunch. So if you want to escape the rush hour, arrive in the morning before 11 am, or in the afternoon from 2.30pm onwards. The general opening hours are 9:00am-5:00pm in the summer (October-April), and 10:00am-4:00pm (May-September).

So what else goes down in this high country village?

Well, it’s not all just tourism. Other notable sectors are farming, energy, and astronomy. Say what? I suppose you’re not as much intrigued by the high country sheep stations surrounding the lake or the power station generating electricity, so let’s get straight to the astronomy side of Tekapo for now. And that’s where Mount John comes in.

Mount John

There is an astronomical observatory on nearby Mount John, basically, a huge rock sitting between Lake Tekapo and Lake Alexandrina, from which there are beautiful views to be enjoyed across the Mackenzie Basin. Mount John can be visited during the daytime, which is spectacular as such, but after dusk, it gets even more interesting. The Mackenzie District has extremely low light pollution, and so the location lends itself to astronomical observation.

Tourists can visit Mount John Observatory and take part in a stargazing tour. You can book it through Earth & Sky in the Tekapo township. There are two tours a night, departing from Tekapo in the late evening, weather permitting.

What else is there to do?

• Soak in the hot springs at the Alpine Springs Spa and enjoy the views over Lake Tekapo from the outdoor pools.
• Go trout fishing.
• Go skiing, snowboarding and ice-skating in the winter. The Two Thumb range has two ski areas: Roundhill and Mt Dobson.
• Cruise the lake (on a very small boat) with Cruise Tekapo and visit Motuariki Island, view the Godley Valley and get a close look at the Tekapo-A power station.
• Go horseback riding with Mackenzie Alpine Horse Trekking.
• Go mountain-biking around the lake or along well-formed trails in the Regional Park.
• Take a scenic flight over the Mackenzie basin and Aoraki Mt Cook, and take in the views of glaciers, high country farming land, and lush rainforest.

Quite a lot on offer for a 300-soul village in the middle of nowhere, don’t you think? I shall leave you with this bit of information: Lake Tekapo’s name is likely to be derived from the Maori word “takapo”, which means “to leave at night with haste”. Having stood under Tekapo’s amazingly dark and clear night skies on top of Mount John, I don’t think it will serve as a motto for its residents or visitors anytime soon.

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How would you spend your time at Lake Tekapo?

So you’re a fair-weather hiker, and your tour of New Zealand’s amazing landscapes is a bit interrupted by rain or bad weather? Well, you might have not come to New Zealand to be indoors, but in terms of museums, there is quite a lot to be discovered in Aotearoa, no matter what corner of the country you are in! Below is my take on the 5 museums in New Zealand you should visit:

Te Papa Museum, Wellington

The Te Papa Museum is the most famous museum in New Zealand, and essentially the Museum OF New Zealand. It is also called Te Papa Tongarewa, and its collections span New Zealand’s natural environment, art, history, and cultural heritage, covering both European settlers and the Maori. When in Wellington, you can not possibly not go to Te Papa. It is an absolute must-do, and you can’t really miss it as it is right by the waterfront in the city centre.

If you don’t manage to make it all the way up to Waitangi on your trip through New Zealand, you should definitely visit the marae in the Te Papa Museum. I also recommend checking out the animal and plant life of New Zealand – there is a lot to be learned about ferns!

Admission: The Te Papa Museum is open every day of the year, including all public holidays, from 10am−6pm, and 10am−9pm on Thursdays. Entry is free; charges apply to special exhibitions and tours (including self-guided audio tours).

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

The North Island is a great place to explore the Maori culture and New Zealand’s bi-cultural history. Waitangi is the go-to place for all things history, and you’d do well not to miss it. Waitangi National Reserve is located up in Northland, right next to Paihia, and is one of New Zealand’s most important historic places. This is where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between the British Crown and the Maori back in 1840, and you’ll find that the visitor centre offers performances, cultural shows, and many Maori artifacts. In the vast grounds, you can visit a Marae and see a Maori canoe, a large waka, and elaborate wood carvings.

Admission: The Waitangi Treaty Grounds are open daily (excluding Christmas Day), from 9 am – 7 pm. General admission is 25 NZD, children under 14 years 12 NZD.

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, New Plymouth

When in Taranaki, in the west of the North Island, make sure you visit New Plymouth’s Govett-Brewster Art Gallery. This place is famous for works of art by kiwi modernist filmmaker and kinetic sculptor Len Lye. The contemporary art museum offers workshops, guided tours, films, music, and special exhibitions. I browsed their short film archive, and it was fascinating. You can just sit down and watch random short films and learn about New Zealand that way.

Admission: The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery is open daily from 10 am – 5 pm (except Christmas Day). Entry is free.

Christchurch Art Gallery

Christchurch Art Gallery, Te Puna o Waiwhetu, is right in the centre of Christchurch’s Cultural Precinct. Again, like the Te Papa, it is a site that is hard to be missed. Although Christchurch Art Gallery is currently closed due to the Christchurch earthquake, it definitely needs to be part of this post. It is due to reopen in mid-2013, and whilst undergoing repairs; art exhibits are to be enjoyed at a few locations across the city.

Southland Museum and Art Gallery, Invercargill

Even in the southernmost city, you can find a museum that is truly worth visiting. I stumbled upon it as I explored Invercargill on foot. Southland Museum is right next to Queen’s Park, a lovely green space with botanic and Japanese gardens (also a must-see in Invercargill, in my opinion). It is, in my opinion, one of the must-see museums in New Zealand and also a destination for movie fans, but this time, not for Lord of the Rings fans. The Southland Museum and Art Gallery host a permanent exhibition on Burt Munro, whose story you may have heard of through the film “The World’s Fastest Indian”, with Anthony Hopkins. The film is about the life of Invercargill’s very own local icon, Burt Munro, his motorcycles and his quest for speed.

The museum has a few other very impressive permanent exhibitions, among which Victoriana Gallery, which illustrates life in Southland in the Victorian era (second half of the 19th century). You may also want to visit the Natural History and the Maori Galleries, both of which I found very interesting and definitely worth checking out.

Admission: Daily. 9 am – 5 pm Monday to Friday, 10 am – 5 pm Saturday and Sunday. Entry is 10 NZD.

What are your recommendations on top museums in New Zealand?

There are plenty of reasons to visit Curio Bay in the Catlins. But travellers who are conscious of their limited time in New Zealand may opt for the more marketed attractions on the regular tourist routes. And they’re missing out. Bigtime.

Granted, Curio Bay isn’t somewhere you just pop over to from a major South Island tourist hub. Situated off the Southern Scenic Route between Invercargill and Dunedin, it is quite a drive, albeit a spectacular one, through beautiful, rugged, untamed nature. If you thought Milford Sound was remote, try the Catlins, and it’ll beat Milford any time for that feeling of isolation, and not only because of the strange lack of camper vans and tour busses on the roads.

But back to my original point: why go there, other than for solace in stunning coastal scenery?

Well, for one Curio Bay is famous for its petrified forest: the tree fossils can be seen at low tide, up close or from a viewing platform, and are over 160 million years old. There’s a fantastic campground there, too, with a tent and van sites on top of a hill overlooking the bay. You may also get to see yellow-eyed penguins in Curio Bay. And for the sports enthusiast, Curio Bay’s very own little surf school provides everything a novice surfer needs to successfully stand on their board after only one afternoon of riding the rather docile but regular waves in this beautiful, remote spot. A perfect mixture. Just don’t forget there’s more wildlife than the cute yellow-eyed penguins, and in places where you least expect it…!

Wildlife adventures

It was a relaxed, sunny Saturday afternoon in February, and I had just woken up from a short nap in my tent. I had spent 4 hours surfing (which by the way, was my first time on a surfboard and just brilliant, but that’s another story) and badly needed some energy. Still dozy I stepped out of my tent and couldn’t help but feel that I had really hit the jackpot with my tent location. I mean, it couldn’t have been any better than this: a private spot, nestled between the flaxes, around 10 metres away from the cliffs, with perfect views over the sea. Yes, this was the penthouse suite on Park Avenue in terms of tent real estate!

I realised there was a guy standing near my tent, pointing his camera towards something of interest to my left, so I turned around and saw… a HUGE sea lion. There, 15 metres away, a 300-pound sea lion sunbathing and rolling around in the grass. How on earth did he manage to get there? Climb up the cliffs?! Although my brain was still preoccupied with the awesomeness of wetsuits and surfboards, I somehow managed to react at lightning speed and jumped back into my tent to grab my camera. I had to get a bit of footage and some pictures of that fellow rolling around in the grass before more people came and scared him away back to where he had come from, wherever that may have been.

Oh, what a thought. Little did I know that he was the angry landlord coming to reclaim his habitat. It had somehow escaped me that today’s sea lions prefer more modern accommodation. I was standing between my car and the cliffs when my new little friend decided to run towards me. Who knew these floppy, clumsy looking animals could actually move that fast on land!? I jumped to the side, and my partner and I continued filming him at a respectful distance. The rest is best explained by our video here:

Who knew that Curio Bay sea lions were partial to yellow tents? This guy must have really missed his Kathmandu outdoor equipment since his last window shopping experience. In any case, he certainly gave us a run for our money in competing for prime camping real estate! Am I glad I woke up from my nap!

So who says you can’t have original adventures anymore in our modern world? If you want to get your adrenaline pumping and don’t have the courage to go bungy jumping, your next New Zealand adventure may just be waiting for you on one of those many stunning campgrounds!

By the way, you can also surf with the hector dolphins in Curio Bay if you’re looking for an adventure that includes wildlife, but not necessarily running away from it…! Have you been to Curio Bay? What was your experience of it?

Travel photo: Curio Bay, New Zealand

This little piece of heaven is Curio Bay. Curio Bay is located in the Catlins, a region in the very south of New Zealand’s South Island. As an area of extraordinary wildlife and stunning natural beauty, one would think it swarms with tourists. But not so. Admittedly, it is quite literally off the beaten track; despite its vicinity to the Southern Scenic Route, Curio Bay is still a long way for most visitors to New Zealand. It is difficult enough for most tourists to fit in touring both islands in 2-3 weeks that many never take the time to go this far south.

However, the drive there is rewarding, and so is the actual destination. Not only can you learn to surf in Curio Bay’s steady waves while dolphins play next to you; there’s a petrified forest, great camping and plenty of wildlife (which may get even too close for comfort).